My boat has that same design for the hull to deck joint. Heres a page that illustrates it.
Then sanded that all smooth and faired into the deck and hull.
Hull to deck joint types. Another option is the so-called shoebox joint where a downward-facing vertical deck flange fits like a shoebox lid over a vertical lip on the hull. In the third variant both the deck and hull have outward-facing horizontal flanges that are joined together. Basic hull-deck joint variations.
Unfortunately a lot of boat builders give the manner in which the deck is attached to the hull short shrift because it is quite time-consuming to create a deck joint that is both strong and water tight. Buyers Guide to Outboard Boats Chapt. The hull to deck joint is where the fiberglass pieces from hull and deck molds combine.
The joint is a vulnerable area for leaks on older boats. Generally three types of joints are inward flange outward flange and shoebox. Ways of securing the joint.
Whether youre looking at a new boat or a used boat the hull to deck joint is an important thing to look for. Different boats are constructed using different methods and how the hull is attached to the deck is of course an imperative considerationif these two parts of the boat come apart the damage can be catastrophic because water can get between them and sink the boat. By far the most prevalent type of hull-to-deck joint today is based on an inboard flange on the hull.
This is at first a little surprising as adding an inward-turning feature to the hull necessitates a split mold and some challenging laminating but beyond the tooling and layup issues the inboard flange has some distinct advantages. The hull to deck join generally has a cove as well. So youd perhaps need to put a cove in it.
Personally you ought to consider a structural pultrusion before you go this route. Call Liberty and see if they can match your toerail in glass. 2014 Cruiser 37.
Hull to Deck Joint Method. Reply 1 on. December 07 2016 1157.
The usual Bavaria system is that the deck is glued on to the hull and then screws are use to further secure the joint. When writing such a checklist for a GRP boat the hull-deck joint would obviously be a separate item to check. Will the hull-deck joint of a steel hull fall in the categories skin plating frames etc.
Really appreciate your input as my metal boat experience. HULL TO DECK JOINTS The hull to deck joint is one of the most critical connections in yacht construction. It must be above all watertight throughout decades of service able to take the punishment of docking impact and contribute to the strength of the boat by essentially making the hull and deck a single structure.
Because Catalina builds daysailors and. But the real reason is that many boats have poorly designed hulldeck joints that are simply lap joints screwed together. It is the stress transferred from the hull bottom to the hull sides and thence to hulldeck join that causes the screws that join these parts together to break loose.
On our powerboats we join the deck to hull with bonding paste sold by Harveys fibreglass. It has a grease like texture and activated with mekp. It forms a solid bond and never had deck came loose on our boats.
Larger boats we fiberglass the fillet corner on the inside of. The Columbia 43 used an H-channel hull deck joint HDJ. This consists of a long aluminum extrusion shaped like an H in cross-section.
The hull fits into the bottom part of the H and the deck piece fits into the top. Heres a page that illustrates it. Of those the 400 the new 440 and 470 have an inward turning hull flange to which the deck is through bolted through an aluminum perforated toe rail.
The other Florida built boats IIRC are the external shoebox type of joint. Both types of joints are bedded copious quantities of a modern adhesivebedding compound unspecified. Key West uses a shoe box type of joint where the deck piece has a 1-12 inch flange that fits down over the top edge of the hull topsides.
The joint is hidden by the rub rail and is screwed and glued with 3M 5200 a very tenacious adhesive. Visible from the aft bilge the hull to deck joint was of the deck overlap type. Stainless steel screw type.
Heavy duty marine adhesive. A rub rail with 14 round stainless steel molding surrounds most of the vessels hull joint and is in good condition NOTE. Some smaller Finot-designed Firsts use a combination of adhesive screws and bolts into the toereals to secure the joint.
The screws and bolts are on alternating centers. I actually was rather surprised to hear of the screws on a boat I own so I contacted a. Hull to deck joint repairs.
Fairlead and teak trim ripped off. The teak toerail capping covering the joint between the hull and deck mouldings had suffered considerable wear and tear. Click on pictures to see full size Two of the four fairleads and some sections of teak had been torn off.
And the rot apparent in some of the bulkheads below. Hello Stefan Thanks for your input. My boat has that same design for the hull to deck joint.
I looked it up and discovered that it is commonly referred to as a shoebox type joint the other two types of hull to deck joints being 1. Inboard flange and 2. First cut off the overhanging part of the joint then round off the edge so that it will be easier to lay fiberglass over it.
Sand down the hull and deck to fiberglass up to about 6 inches from the joint. Depending on how much upward loading the deck gets you may want to sand more or less. They might even make the joint weaker.
As I understand the deck to hull connection both pieces were formed with an external flange. They bolted the two together on the outside of the boat glassed the interior then cut off the external flanges bolts and all. The rough edges of the hull and deck flanges were then covered with the rub rail.
Next was to put a layer of 12 wide FGepoxy overlaping the deck and hull. More on the deck for the first layer. And more on the hull for the second layer.
Then sanded that all smooth and faired into the deck and hull. With two layers of FG it was time for the caprail. The planks came in 5 x 12 long.
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